Astoria boasts just about every cuisine in the world, but there aren't a lot of restaurants dedicated to locavorism (Brooklyn definitely beats Queens in this department). So it was a pleasure to find Vesta, an Italian place where the ingredients are seasonal and local.
With a dim, cozy interior reminiscent of Brooklyn's Frankie's 457, Vesta is comfortable for the couple or the family. I recommend arriving early, as service may suffer when there is a crowd. Remembering a delicious bucatini with broccoli rabe and shredded ricotta salata, I enlisted my companion on a visit tonight.
Unfortunately, the bucatini was no longer on the menu. However, that delectable greenmarket salad was still there. Crunchy with cucumbers, radishes and sliced almonds, it was full of lightly vinaigretted organic greens (courtesy of Greenpoint's Roof Top Farms). Another winner was a plate of three garlicky crostini served with a hot dish of baked Taleggio. The buttery melted cheese was garnished with date paste and hazelnuts. We also had the chilled tomato soup with basil cream, which was a sweeter, richer alternative to gazpacho.
Dinner was a pan-roasted salmon filet in lemon sauce on a bed of charred green and purple kale. Because of a backup in the kitchen, it took a while to arrive. Hungry from waiting, we eyed the half roasted chicken of a nearby diner - it seemed to be of a much more generous portion. (Pasta portions are quite generous - if I had to redo the meal, I'd order the festonati with zucchini pesto, cherry tomatoes and pecans.)
Vesta: 21-02 30th Ave., Astoria, 718-545-5550. Note to Astorians: on nights when there are enough restaurant staff, delivery is available.
Monday, August 17, 2009
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